Nuñez is the northernmost barrio of the Capital Federal zone of Buenos Aires, after which begin the northern suburbs of Buenos Aires Provincia. The neighborhood is well-known for possessing a large following of River Plate Football Club, aka Los Millionarios (The Millionaires).
An introduction to Nuñez
Nuñez lies in the northwest of Buenos Aires on the banks of Rio de la Plata. The barrio shares its borders with Belgrano, Coghlan, Saavedra and Avenida General Paz, the latter marking the point where Capital Federal becomes La Provincia.
The history of Nuñez can be traced back to 1873 and takes its name from its founder, Don Florencio Emeterio Nuñez. At this time he formed the society Nuñez y Cia with the original ambition of establishing a town call Saavedra. With the help of engineer Laurentino Sierra Carranza and architect Antonio Buschiazzo, maps were drawn up for the area and on April 27th the first foundations of Nuñez and Saavedra were laid. On the very same day a train carrying around two thousand passengers arrived to whom the land was sold and divided to allow for development.
These days, Nuñez is a relaxed residential neighborhood popular with families with young children and professional couples. Boasting a good mix of contemporary apartment blocks, commercial streets and residential homes, Nuñez bears a similar resemblance to the northern suburbs.
Things to see, do or both
Standout attractions are somewhat limited in Nuñez as the barrio focuses more on modern housing and quiet side streets. Nevertheless, what is on offer is worth every penny of a visit.
The neighborhood is perhaps most famous for being the home of Club Atletico River Plate, one of the largest football clubs in both Argentina and South America. Although their ground, El Monumental, actually falls into the boundaries of Belgrano, Nuñez often regarded as its spiritual home. On a match day the crowd can be heard for miles and seeing a game here is a great way to experience the passion of Argentine futbol. The stage for the 1978 World Cup Final, the stadium also hosts international rock and pop concerts.
If you are in Buenos Aires and interested in finding out more about Argentina’s topsy-turvy political history then you should make sure to visit the Escuela de Mecanica de la Armada (ESMA). Originally the Navy school of mechanics, the premises was used during the Dirty War by the military government as an illegal detention/torture center where thousands of left-wing activists were held between 1976-83 with many becoming part of the thirty thousand to have ‘disappeared’. Also known as the Espacio Memoria, tours are available by appointment only so call ahead.
Nuñez is also a wonderful barrio for recreational activities and if you end up living here for a while you could do worse than joining Club Ciudad. A huge sports center, you’ll find everything from football pitches and basketball courts to gymnasiums and swimming pools. Within the grounds is the stadium of second division football team Defensores de Belgrano, and music events are often on the agenda.
Finally, on a sunny day head to the river and Parque de los Ninos, a 32-hectare park with gardens, swimming pools, water slides and a mock riverside beach.
Nightlife and restaurants
Parrilla Marucha (11 de Septiembre 3702). Just a few blocks from Avenida de Libertador, Parrilla Marucha offers meat eating in a classy environment. Although large slabs of steak are always welcome on your plate, Marucha serves up Argentina’s finest cuts with elegance. Delicacies such as mozzarella, ham, bacon and diced tomato and chili wrapped in a choice of beef, pork or chicken should get your mouth watering.
Divino Nuñez (Manuela Pedraza 1802). You probably won’t stumble across this place so make a note to not miss out. About four blocks from the Espacio Memoria, exquisite plates of shrimp brochette, shrimp raviolis and maracuya tart will guarantee a cheery mood after learning about Argentina’s dark history. Perfect white tablecloths and candlelight provide the perfect bistro setting.
Club 74 (Figueroa Alcorta 7474). It is debatable whether this is in Nuñez or Belgrano; however, one thing is for sure is that it is worth a look for a night of alternative music. Whilst much of Buenos Aires concentrates on cumbia and electronica, Club 74 entertains with disco, funk and soul straight out of the 70s and 80s.
Chaplin Bar (Cabildo 4235). This may not be to everyone’s taste but if you feel like arranging a themed party with your friends then Chaplin Bar is the place. Specializing in birthday parties, simply choose your theme, book the place and tell your friends to turn up in their best costumes. You can even arrange your children’s parties here.
Why it’s hot / Why it’s not
Nuñez is far more relaxed than the likes Palermo and San Telmo yet it is a pleasant barrio that goes about its business with an air of class. If you want to be amidst the nightlife and entertainment action then it probably won’t be for you; however, should you want a more residential feel then it offers a more accessible alternative to the likes of Vicente Lopez and Olivos further north.
If you are coming to live in Buenos Aires with your family then Nuñez could be an excellent option as the barrio offers both well-equipped modern apartment complexes and houses set along leafy streets. Moreover, within the barrio you can find all the amenities you need plus endless transport links to the city center and northern suburbs.