Everyone loves dogs. And why not? We’ve selectively (but mostly unintentionally) bred them to be the perfect companions over a period of at least 15,000 years. Dogs are always happy to see you, they make great surrogate children, and if you’re a single man they’re a fantastic way to meet chicks (chicas too). What’s not to love?

There is, however, a darker side to doggy ownership. Owning a dog can seriously restrict your movements. Going away for a week or even a weekend isn’t so easy when you have a canine in your life, and moving countries can seem impossible.

So is it? Let’s take a look at how you would move to Argentina with a dog, and what life would be like for your pooch if it were here with you.

Formal requirements (paperwork)

In order to bring a dog to Argentina you have to comply with some formalities. If you don’t, your doggy friend may be placed in quarantine on arrival at Ezeiza, and you obviously don’t want that.

Here’s what you need:

1. Microchip: Not actually a requirement, but a microchip (if your dog doesn’t already have one) is highly recommended. If you have it done you’ll get a Microchip Implantation Record to prove it.
2. Rabies Vaccination & Certificate: If your pooch is over 3 months of age it must have a Rabies Certificate. The rabies vaccination must occur at least 30 days prior to departure but not more than 360 days before departure.
3. A Vet Health Certificate (Form 7001 in the USA): This is the standard animal Health Certificate. It must be filled out by an accredited vet and must be issued within 10 days of the departure.

Note that the certificate must be written in or translated into Spanish and must contain: your name and address; the animal’s data including breed, sex, date of birth, size, color any particular signs; country of origin and transit points if applicable, and a statement that the animal has been examined within 10 days of departure and doesn’t show any clinical signs of diseases.

4. A Government Vet Endorsement: The forms mentioned above (Microchip Implantation Record, Rabies Certificate and Vet Health Certificate) must be sent to your local government vet for their stamp of approval. Contact your local representative (do an internet search to find their details) on the best way of handling this.

Alright, the formalities have been attended to and your dog is ready to fly. But what about the transport itself?

Air travel with a dog

Airlines are of course no strangers to moving live cargo along with their live passengers. However, conditions in a shipping kennel in the cargo hold of a plane aren’t pleasant: it will be dark, extremely cold and very noisy when the plane is in flight.

If you want to improve things for your doggy pal you should do the following:

* Buy the shipping kennel with plenty of time to spare and get your dog used to it by confining him or her in there for short periods of time with a treat;
* For bedding, insert a solid piece cardboard (cut to fit) in the bottom of the kennel and cover it with shredded newspaper;
* Choose a non-stop flight, both to minimize the journey time and because the cargo hold will be subject to unpredictable local temperature conditions during the stopover;
* Dress him or her in a winter coat; and
* Put one of your unwashed t-shirts in the kennel (the familiar smell will be reassuring).

Note that if your dog is small enough to fit in a carry-on bag, you might be able to find an airline that allows dogs in the cabin, a much more comfortable option.

The above things will make flying more comfortable for your dog, but if you really want the best for your pooch you should send him or her on a dedicated cargo plane (for example a FedEx or UPS plane) instead. Conditions on these planes are much more dog-friendly, as they’re loaded on the forward main cabin pallet. This area has light, air conditioning, and no more noise than you get in the passenger cabin of a regular plane. Also, it’s not uncommon for one of the pilots to be in this area at times during the flight, so if your dog isn’t happy there’ll be someone who might be able to help.

It’s particularly a good idea to send your dog on a dedicated cargo plane if it’s a short-nosed breed (like a bulldog or a pug), as these sometimes have respiratory problems on plane – indeed, sometimes they don’t survive plane journeys in cargo holds.

If you send you dog on a cargo plane, don’t forget to put written instructions regarding your dog on the airbill. Write them in both English and Spanish and include (of course) a contact phone number in Buenos Aires.

Some people recommend giving your dog a tranquilizer before the flight, but this is not a good idea unless your dog is naturally very highly strung and will be frantic during the flight. One problem with tranquilizers is that doped doggies aren’t able to pant if too hot or curl up if they are too cold, and another is that if they are sick they can choke on the vomit. If you nevertheless think your dog might need a tranquilizer, see your vet about it at least a couple of weeks before the flight.

Keeping a dog in Buenos Aires

Argentines are dog lovers on the whole and keeping a dog in Buenos Aires is not difficult. There are good dog food brands here (two of the best are Eukanuba and Royal Canin), and dogs are usually welcome in bars and restaurants. Just ask for a little dish and you can feed your dog something to keep him or her happy. Beef empanadas usually go down well! Parks are almost always very dog-friendly too.

Note that it can be risky to leave your dog tied up outside a chino or supermarket in Buenos Aires. The reason is that people regularly steal dogs, sometimes in order to sell them and sometimes in order to ransom them back to the owner! (That sounds kind of funny, but it won’t be if it happens to you.) If your dog is a mutt then of course your risks of falling victim to doggy theft are much reduced.

If you don’t have time to walk your dog every day, you can of course hire one of Buenos Aires’ famous dog-walkers. The easiest way to set this up is to ask a neighbor or the doorman in your apartment building if they know of one (the word for ‘dog-walker’ is ‘paseaperros’).

Taxi drivers in Buenos Aires are usually fine with taking dogs, though your pup will probably have to sit on the floor. If it’s an important journey then it’s better to book a remis (an unmarked private taxi). When you phone to book it, say that you have a dog (‘tengo un perro’) and request a quote for the trip. It’ll usually be pretty close to what a taxi would cost and you can book the return journey as well if you need to.

Finally

So there you go! You don’t have to leave your pooch behind if you want to move to Buenos Aires – it’s not so hard to relocate with your dog, and not so hard to keep on here.

One final thing: if you get stuck, there’s a company called Pets Ventura that has its head office in Buenos Aires. They specialize in pet relocation, have a vet service, a pet hotel, pet day care, do pet training and more.

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If there’s one thing that Buenos Aires does really well in terms of accommodation, it’s boutique hotels. Maybe it’s because the hotspots like San Telmo, Palermo and Recoleta don’t have acres of space for big international hotel chains to open up, but whatever the reason, boutiques always top the rankings when it comes to the best places to stay.

Of course there is a dark side to Buenos Aires boutique hotel-dom, and it’s that sometimes, or even often, boutique hotels choose form over function in order to seem trendy and avant-garde. This quote from the New York Times contributor Ian Mount sums the situation up perfectly:

A high proportion of BA boutique hotels look like they were designed by Philippe Starck’s younger, dull-normal, less-talented brother.

But never fear! This guide to five of Buenos Aires’ best boutiques will help you to steer clear of the pretenders. All five attract rave reviews from guests and some are so popular they must be booked months in advance.

1. Bo Bo Hotel | Palermo Soho

Bo Bo is set in a renovated old colonial style house in Palermo Soho, which provides a stunning setting for this modern hotel. With only seven rooms to play with, Bo Bo has gone with the ‘theme room’ idea that is much beloved of boutique hotels the world over. The concept is a bit overdone, but Bo Bo manages to pull it off, and rooms including Techno, Art Deco, and Argentinian all bring both style and comfort to the table. The beds are large and comfortable, and the showers have plenty of pressure and heat.

The staff at Bo Bo speak flawless English, are highly friendly and attentive, and there’s a concierge service that can make dinner reservations for you – a nice touch if you’re not in town for long and don’t have time to do your own restaurant research. On other hand, the restaurant in the hotel is excellent in its own right, so staying in is a good option too.

2. Babel Hotel | San Telmo

Set in a historic mansion on a tranquil, cobblestoned San Telmo street, Babel Hotel promises a lot from the first time you see it. And happily, it delivers, with a warm and intimate atmosphere and a comfortable and fun experience.

The staff at Babel are unremittingly charming and kind, and seem ready to bend over backwards to please their guests.

Rooms at Babel aren’t large but are beautifully decorated and have comfortable beds. The bathrooms are luxurious, with real showers as opposed to the all-too-common ‘shower in a bathtub’ setup. The public room is a great place to relax, so there’s no need to stay in your room while you recover from a day of sightseeing.

Breakfasts are outstanding, featuring fresh fruit and pastries and the ability to get things like omelets and ham& cheese toasties made-to-order from the kitchen. The hotel also has a cozy bar with great wines and cocktails.

3. Home Hotel Buenos Aires | Palermo Hollywood

Home Hotel does exactly what it says on the tin – it really DOES make you feel like you’re at home (only with more style and much better service!). It occupies an absolutely beautiful building, and has similarly beautifully decorated rooms with plenty of great design touches. The rooms are modern and have English TV channels and mini-bars (hic!).

In terms of common areas, Home has a nice lobby to chill out or read in, a garden with terrace, and a pool –a very small pool, but a pool nonetheless. There’s also a resto-bar which can both satisfy your drinking requirements (including cocktails) and serve you food, though the food is more geared towards lunches and snacks than evening meals.

The service at Home is great: polite and helpful. Guests are e-mailed an agenda prior to their departure, and on arrival a helpful booklet is provided which answers all of the questions you might have.

4. The Cocker | San Telmo

This gorgeous guesthouse has just four suites, making it a truly exclusive boutique experience. Like so many boutique hotels The Cocker is located in a historic building, and it’s one that has been refurbished to produce a tasteful elegance. Beautiful design touches abound, like the art-nouveau wall of glazed iron that features in the reception area.

Each of the four rooms is unique and crammed with character, usually blending lush fabrics and restored antiques with modernist twists. The beds are comfortable and the rooms have a lot of natural light.
Breakfasts at The Cocker are very good, with croissants, toast, and fresh fruits. The service is great and the staff can provide lots of local knowledge on where to go and what to eat.

5. 1555 Malabia House Hotel | Palermo Soho

Über-cool Palermo Viejo is where you’ll find the charming 1555 Malabia House. If you arrive at night, just look for the tree out the front that’s lit up at night.

Among the highlights at 1555 are fresh, bright and modern rooms with great towels and bathrobes, personal and friendly service, and impeccable levels of cleanliness. The lounge/living room is outstanding: filled with natural light, making it a lovely place to relax when you have sore feet from a day of walking.

Breakfasts are delicious, with plenty of choices. They’re eaten in an elegant breakfast room at a large communal table, which is great for meeting other guests.

Next Step: Splendia, Book Luxury Hotels and Boutique Hotels Online

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Given its status as a top tourist destination, it comes as no surprise that Buenos Aires has well over 1 trillion (I made that number up) hotel beds. That’s a lot of beds, and so having to select just one can quickly lead to choice paralysis, and subsequently the decision to go somewhere lamer, like Santiago, just to have a more straight-forward choice of accommodation. That would be a huge mistake.

Instead, refer to this handy guide. Four categories, five places to stay per category, and all of them winners. What could be simpler than that?

Cheap, cheerful hostels

1. Milhouse

Though it’s not to everyone’s tastes, no list of Buenos Aires hostels would be complete without a mention of the inimitable Milhouse.

Milhouse is one of the classic large, we-do-it-all-for-you hostels where you don’t need to lift a finger to have a good time. It features planned entertainment options every day and night of the week (football matches, tango lessons, day trips, and so on), so you need never be bored or even have to plan any of your own activities. Milhouse has also long been the premier party hostel of Buenos Aires, so those who are here for the boliches and seeing tourist attractions only from the window of a cab home at 8am need look no further.

Note that Milhouse has two locations, both of them excellent: the original is at Hipólito Yrigoyen 959, and the newer location is Avenida de Mayo 1245. The former is between San Telmo and the Microcentro, while the latter is in the same area just a little further out, on the other side of Avenida 9 de Julio.

2. Sandanzas Cultural Hostel

Don’t be put off by the odd inclusion of ‘cultural’ in the name, because Sandanzas is one of San Telmo’s best hostels. It’s a small (max 28 people), funky and relaxed kind of a place that’s a great option for solo travelers: it’s the kind of place where everyone introduces themselves to each other just because they’re staying at the same hostel. The staff are friendly and helpful and there’s a nice range of amenities including a kitchen, free Wi-Fi, free bikes and free tango lessons (yes, there’s a lot of free stuff).

The one downside is the front door, which closes with a considerable clang and can be annoying if you’re trying to sleep (which you shouldn’t be doing anyway: sleep is for the weak).

3. Terrazas Estoril

A top-rated hostel in a great location with a subte station just out in front. You’ll no doubt be delighted to encounter air-conditioning, excellent security, excellent staff and common areas with plenty of space to do your thing, whatever that might be. Best of all is the amazing rooftop terrace. The bathrooms leave a little something to be desired, but hey – this ain’t the Four Seasons. There’s a 24hr reception, a bar, individual lockers each big enough for a backpack, a travel advice desk where you can book bus tickets, and some architecturally interesting restored dome rooms.

4. The Hostel-Inn Tango City

This is a chain hostel, so whether you’ll like it or not really depends on whether that’s your thing. On the plus side this 100-capacity hostel is spotlessly clean, and it has lockers in every room, organized activities, air conditioning, cable TV, computers with free internet plus a Wi-Fi zone, free bedclothes and a big bar. On the other hand…it just feels like a chain hostel, which is really just to say that it lacks any individual character. It doesn’t have so much of a party vibe as some other big hostels, but it’s still a fun place to hang out. Hostel-Inn Tango City is located in San Telmo.

5. America del Sur Hostel Buenos Aires

This ‘hostel’ is delightfully poised right on a knife-edge between being a hotel and being a hostel. It’s only two years old and despite being located in the old district of San Telmo, it’s in a purpose-built building. It’s very clean and modern, and while it has dorms, they have en-suite bathrooms and a maximum of four beds each. There’s free Wi-Fi in all the rooms. It’s not a party hostel but there’s a great common area downstairs where it’s easy to meet people, and when you want to kick on there’s a bar right across the road (La Puerta Roja).

The immediate area that America del Sur is in is down-at-heel, but it’s only a short walk from Calle Defensa, which is home to many great bars and restaurants. There’s also a fantastic little American-style café just around the corner called Matilda’s (try the cupcakes).

Hotels on a budget

1. Lola House

Somewhat unusually located in the barrio of Boedo (some distance from both Palermo and the Microcentro), Lola House is nevertheless a great little hotel and a budget gem. It’s small but has large and comfortable rooms, is decorated nicely, is quiet and has a nice inner courtyard. What really makes it special however are the incredibly friendly and helpful hosts, Lidia and Anna, who by now must have charmed literally thousands of visitors to Buenos Aires. Each morning they cook a big breakfast, ask their guests what they saw the day before, and make suggestions for the day to come. It’s a lovely personal touch that’s simply impossible to find anywhere else.

2. Art Hotel

Budget hotels in Recoleta are harder to find than in the less posh barrios, but Art Hotel would be good value wherever it was located. It manages to be simultaneously modern, chic and possessed with a certain artistic old world charm inside – a difficult combination to pull off! Its rooms are mostly small but cozy and are very clean. There’s a very good buffet breakfast, free Wi-Fi, and friendly staff. Due to its small rooms (with limited closet space) it’s perhaps better suited to shorter stays, unless you’re prepared to pay extra for one of their larger rooms.

3. Ibis Buenos Aires

Ibis is of course the ‘economy’ hotel brand of the Accor hotel group, so the Ibis Buenos Aires is a chain hotel. Don’t hold that against it however, because it has everything you could want in a budget hotel: cleanliness; comfortable beds; pleasant staff, and fairly priced extras (the breakfast is very reasonable). It’s well located in its own building within walking distance of the Obelisco, Avenida 9 de Julio, Avenida de Mayo and the Casa Rosada.

Any downsides? Only that, like all chain hotels, it’s a little soulless. Otherwise it’s just your basic clean, well located hotel, and as an added bonus the service is surprisingly cheerful too.

4. Hotel Lion d’Or

Not a place perhaps for couples on a romantic getaway, but nevertheless a dependable, safe and comfortable Recoleta hotel at a bargain price. It occupies a gigantic old town house, meaning that the ceilings are high and the floors wooden.

Rooms at Lion d’Or are small, and so are their bathrooms, but they’re clean, cozy and inviting and entirely acceptable for the money. Their beds are comfortable. Only some rooms have air conditioning, so check this when you book if you’ll be in Buenos Aires during summer – you’ll need it.

5. Don Telmo

Don Telmo is located in an old 3-story house which has been converted into a hotel, giving it a medley of different rooms. All of them are comfortable however, with extremely high ceilings, a free Wi-Fi signal and clean (if small) bathrooms. It also boasts more than one common area – there’s a lounge as well as a roof terrace. Staff are extremely friendly and all in all it’s very good value, if maybe a little lacking in extras and amenities.

The only real ‘con’ with Don Telmo is the location. As the name suggests this hotel is located in San Telmo, which is also fine unless you were perhaps looking for a more glamorous spot. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the hotel to the area of San Telmo with the bulk of cafes, bars and restaurants.

The mid-range hotel sweet spot

1. Hotel Racó de Buenos Aires

A lovely boutique hotel with excellent staff located in the barrio of Almago. It’s very clean and comfortable and tastefully decorated inside with artwork and sculptures. Great breakfasts are provided, and the staff are warm, super friendly, and can make a lot of helpful recommendations about places to eat and things to do.

There aren’t many places to go out in Almagro, but a short subte or taxi ride solves that problem. The nearest subte station is only three blocks away.

2. The Glu Hotel

The oddly-named Glu Hotel has a great location in Palermo Soho. It’s a beautiful, modern, spacious kind of place with nice hardwood floors. It’s clean and friendly, the staff speak perfect English, and, as you normally find when you start to move up the hotel food chain, everything ‘just works’. Basic breakfast with good coffee is included. This is perhaps the ultimate mid-range Buenos Aires boutique hotel.

3. TRYP Buenos Aires

Located a block from Calle Florida and within walking distance to Puerto Madero and the upmarket and impressive Galerias Pacifico Mall, TRYP is a modern, quiet and well-appointed place to stay. The rooms are spacious and the showers are good. The service is outstanding and supremely accommodating English-speaking staff (try them!). There’s a great breakfast buffet with lots of food choices and free internet on two computers downstairs.

4. Claridge Hotel

Again located close to Calle Florida, Claridge has smaller rooms which could perhaps use a makeover, but are comfortable and clean. Claridge stands out for its features and amenities, which include: a pool (fantastic in Buenos Aires summer heat); an excellent English-style breakfast with free champagne (!); a bar, and a restaurant. The staff are very helpful and speak English, as you would expect at this price point.

5. Howard Johnson Hotel Boutique Recoleta

Exactly who is Howard Johnson? No idea, but he could only be pleased with this hotel, as it fights for the title of ‘best boutique hotel in Buenos Aires.’ There are only 12 rooms, all of which are quiet and spacious, with big beds, excellent showers, flat screen TVs and free super fast Wi-Fi. Some bathrooms have Jacuzzi baths. There’s a free (Argentine-style) breakfast provided every morning until 10:30am. The solarium is a nice place for cocktails in the evening.

If you hadn’t already noticed, plush Recoleta is one of the best places to stay in Buenos Aires. The Howard Johnson is within walking distance of the Recoleta cemetery and lots of nice restaurants. Trips to San Telmo, the Microcentro and Palermo will each require a short cab ride, but taxis are so cheap and plentiful in Buenos Aires that it hardly matters.

Dear-but-delightful deluxe hotels

1. Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires

Have more money than sense? Well then why not stay at a really expensive hotel. Positioned at the upper end of the upper end, the Four Seasons Buenos Aires is undeniably beautiful, charming and awesome. Food in the restaurant is delicious, the pool and spa relaxing, and there are a host of features such as gym, great beds, a pillow menu and a generally unrivalled, highly personalized level of service. It’s also sparkling clean, of course. Rooms are a little characterless, and not all of them have a great view, but they’re still elegant and refined.

2. Mine Hotel Boutique

While Palermo is long on places to eat, bars and boutiques, it’s not a place to sightsee, so taxis will be necessary to ferry you from Mine Hotel Boutique to places such as San Telmo and the Microcentro if you’re into that sort of thing. With that small issue out of the way, what about the hotel? Yes, it’s lovely. There’s a dipping pool (an oasis during summer), a garden area, excellent service with top-notch maids, and tasty and varied breakfast.

Ambience-wise, Mine Hotel Boutique is comfortable, stylish, sleek, compact and intimate rather than spacious. It has been cleverly designed to make the best use of space. The outdoor garden and pool area can be seen from many internal areas through glass walls, which is a nice touch. The rooms, of which there are only 20, are small but very cozy.

3. Mansion Vitraux Boutique Hotel

It’s unusual to find luxury hotels in Buenos Aires’ oldest barrio of San Telmo, but Mansion Vitraux is undeniably that. It has an avant-garde kind of ambience with sophistication, charm, and some unique décor including red walls. Sometimes there’s an emphasis on form over function, but that can almost always be forgiven. The beds are so comfortable you really don’t want to stop sleeping, and the breakfast buffet is generous and delicious. The kitchen staff will cook you something to order in addition to the buffet if that’s what you want. There’s a wine cellar complete with a sommelier.

4. Hilton Buenos Aires

The Buenos Aires Hilton is located in the very new, very clean area of Puerto Madero. Like the area, the Hilton is stylish, new and modern rather than atmospheric, but that’s the nature of the beast when it comes to chain hotels. Rooms are big and comfortable, with an air of quiet elegance. The lobby is huge and has glass elevators. The service is, of course, top notch. There’s a very helpful concierge who’s not stingy with his time and provides a personalized service.

5. PuroBaires Hotel Boutique

PuroBaires is in the trendy barrio of Palermo Soho. The hotel is pretty trendy to, with a chic, tastefully-decorated lobby and bar. The common areas also include a small rooftop terrace with a pool; just the thing for cooling off at the end of a hot summer’s day in Buenos Aires.

Rooms are immaculate, spacious and quiet at PuroBaires and the beds are comfortable. The breakfasts are excellent, with cappuccino, fruit salads, freshly made omelets and freshly baked bread. Staff are amazingly friendly and will be calling you by name in no time.

Finalmente

…Does that make things clearer? You should be able to see now that Buenos Aires boasts some absolutely fabulous places to stay, particularly in the boutique category (which crosses all price levels). And as long as Argentina’s economy continues to lurch from crisis to crisis, they’re eminently affordable for foreigners as well. So book one already!

Next Step: Splendia, Book Luxury Hotels and Boutique Hotels Online

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